Livingstone – Victoria Falls
Named after the famous explorer Livingstone is THE hub to explore Zambia’s main attraction: The Mosi-oa-Tunya/Victoria Falls, the world’s greatest sheet of falling water. If this does not impress you – the water dropping 100m down can be seen from two different countries – Zambia and Zimbabwe. The Zimbabwean side I visited 2014. This was the most southern point of our trip and the most rewarding one while I travelled with my friends. Five of us started in Lusaka, after Kafue National Park two had to go back to Lusaka for health issues. Martin, Reinhard and I continued to Livingstone, I left them in Siovanga/Kariba Dam to travel to the village of Ching’ombe in central Zambia.
Victoria Falls
During the rainy seasons, when the river carries vast amounts of water, the spray can be seen from a distance of 30km. Even in July we got wet as soon as we got closer, plastic ponchos sold at souvenir shops keep you dry.
Victoria Falls
We spent days walking the 1708m wide span, marveling at this incredible wonder of nature. Of course we crossed the famous bridge into Zimbabwe with the Zambezi River gushing far below. The train tracks on the bridge are hardly used, sadly trucks have taken over the transport of Zambia most precious resource – copper.
Bridge across the Zambezi River connecting Zambia and Zimbabwe
Locals who cross regularly from Zambia into Zimbabwe pass through immigration showing this
Trucks from various African countries cross the bridge, one by one.
Standing on Zambian and Zimbabwean territory at the same time
Once Martin and treated ourselves for lunch in the most expensive hotel, The Royal Livingstone. The setting on the river is overwhelming, the whole venue is a place to want to be, tranquil, squeaky clean, what’s missing are customers.
Enjoying lunch with Martin at the Royal Livingstone- THE Hotel in town
Royal Livingstone Hotel not very busy
Our lodge, also right on the river, was less luxurious. While Martin and reinhard stayed in room, I decided to save money and slept in a tent. Was not a smart decision. Night falls around 6pm, so what do you do after dinner? In the tent it was too cold to hold a book over a longer period, actually there was no warm place for me to spend the chilly evenings / mornings. Also the restaurant had not one room that was closed off. So we spend every evening at the bar, drinking, chatting and watching the Africa Women’s Cup of Nations, best soccer ever.
Terrace of our lodge overlooking the Zambezi River
Reinhard and me Gaming up on shots at the bar of our lodge
https://youtu.be/ZkHIP-8thDU?si=RGnynZx1qj-zD5D0
Jewish Heritage in Livingstone
When we were about to overdose on looking at waterfalls, we spent a day exploring museums – my absolute favorite was the Jewish Museum. It portrays the Susman dynasty, starting with Harry Susman arriving from what is now Lithuania in 1902. Him and his brother Elie eventually owned copper mines, large cattle farms. In Livingstone they ran a butchery and bakery in Livingstone.
The Susman dynasty was an influential family in Zambia
The Wulfsohns became another prominent Jewish family. Harry Wulfsohn was the first to arrive from Latvia with $10 in his pocket and not able to speak English he ended up making fortunes, joining forces with the Susman. Jewish business men were also among the founders of Lusaka, which became the capital of Northern Rhodesia in 1932. A Jewish cemetery on the edge of town gives evidence of the rich Jewish heritage in Livingstone.
The Jewsish cemetary gives evidence of the Jewish Heritage in Livingstone
The Railway Museum exhibits various generations of trains that were used to travel these tracks. The Susmans also developed the timber industry around Livingstone which led to the building of the railroad. In the beginning oxen were used to get the timber out, but they were often attacked by lions. Overgrown tracks still can be seen, all over Livingstone, they are popular for walking along.
Railway Museum in Lusaka
Inside an old train at the Railway Museum in Lusaka
Near Livingstone is a small Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park. The big attraction are a couple of rhinos that can be watched from a relatively short distance if accomanied by rangers.
Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park.
Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park.
Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park.
Botswana – Namibia – Zambia – Zimbabwe
One day I joined an American lady on a trip to Chobe National Park in Botswana. The border is only a one-hour drive from Livingstone. A guide picked us up after immigration and after another 30 minutes we were inside this most famous National Park.
We started out on the Chobe River by boat in the chilly morning hours, sipping tea and eating cookies. Hippos were munching noisily on the grass in the river, on the shore a few elephants were looking at us. The lady was a bird expert and could explain every feathery thing we came across. We also got to watch the gruesome sight of a crocodile killing another crocodile, something I had seen only once before in Zimbabwe, canoeing down the Zambezi River. We sailed so close to the border with Nambia that we could admire the beautiful bungalows built right on the river. I was wondering what it is like to watch the animals from your bedroom or porch. I have never been to a place where basically four countries meet
In the afternoon the guide took us out in a jeep driving parallel to the shore, within minutes we were surrounded by large groups of elephants, they kept coming from all directions heading for the lake to drink. They move completely noiseless on the sand, even a large group. Only when they break through the bush or trumpet
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