Iraq, Middle East/Caucasus

Ancient Acre – the Pearl of Kurdistan

My lovely Kurdish taxi driver dropped me off in Acre. He took me to the view point overlooking the old town. The old houses seem to be on top of each other on the mountainside. Peschmerga was written into the stop of the mountain, leaving no doubt who is on control here.

Acre is full of history, created in 580 BC it was under the rule of the Israelites, the Assyrians, Phoenicians and invaded by Alexander the Great.Akre was once a mixed city of Jews, Christians and Muslims.

Another reason I stopped was that a friend of mine is from Acre and still has family there. She kept sending me Whatsapp messages telling me I had to visit her aunt’s Restaurant.

 

Scenic Acre – has seen it all

Xanedan Cafe & Restaurant, the recommended place was deserted in the afternoon, Ramadan of course. I was about to leave when a young man appeared and addressed me in English. I was hungry and he kindly presented me with a scoop of ice-cream, which I enjoyed walking around town. I quickly realized that it was not very sensitive during Ramadan.

Lovely Shadman at his uncle’s restaurant

For the evening I went back up to old Acre. It was simply overwhelming, the many dished I was served for Iftar were delicious and Shadman introduced me to local people. Late at night, the small center which had come to life.

After Iftar dinner men gather in the city center for a tea and chat

I chose the little roundabout  for a zoom meeting, surrounded by men sitting on plastic chairs sipping tea. They curisouly watched me and kept bringing me tea over and over again.

Roundabout I chose for a zoom meeting late at night

Those dishes were only the appetizers

It is a men’s world- even the shopping is done by them

Acre just before Iftar

Acre at night

After Iftar the streets filled with men sipping tea

There was no place to stay in old Acre so had to take a taxi down to the new town.  I thought I was the only guest, but after my return from dinner up in ancient Acre I realized that it was completely booked now. A junior soccer team had also checked in and used the hallways to spend the night partying away. I had to use my commanding teacher’s voice to chase them into their rooms.

Downtown Duhok-new town, near my hotel

Words got around I was heading to Erbil and I was thrilled to be offered a ride, an easy way to Erbil. Luckily my travel compaignon spoke some English and he had things to tell for sure: after the ISIS withdrew in 2015 he was the coordinator of the refugee camps north of Erbil. He stayed there for weeks without ever being able to go home.

Refugee Camp for the Yazedi people near Acre

 

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