Bosra, once the capital of the Roman province Arabia, is in the very south of Syria, hard on the Jordanian border. Near the town of Suwayda, which became known to the world in 2025 when the Druses population was attacked by Sunni hardliners, which gave Israeli a reason to bomb the area.
The reason to drive for two hours through flat terrain to this archaeological site is the magnificent 2nd century Roman amphitheater. I have only seen similar architecture in Arles/France.
Amphitheater- Ancient Bosra
Map of Syria – red Arrow points at Ancient Bosra
I travelled to Bosra in June 2025, my 5th trip to Syria since 2019 and a place I had not visited yet. In 2019 it was not quite clear who controlled the region and later my focus was on the north and northeast of Syria
Outside the citadelle of Ancient Bosra – the theater was Incorporated in the fortification
Roman Amphitheater 2nd century
History of Bosra
Bosra survived about 2500 years inhabited and almost intact. The Nabataeans, Romans, Byzantines and Umayyad, all left traces in the city, significant episodes in the history of ideas and beliefs.
Nabataean Gate in Ancient Bosra
Thus the archaeological site of Bosra is huge. It stood at the head of several caravan routes from Arabia and a trail leading to the Mediterranean coast, plus was an important stopover point for pilgrims travelling towards Mecca. Bosra was the first city in southern Syria to be conquered by the Muslim armies in 634, during the phase of Islamic expansion.
Roman monuments, early Byzantine churches, mosques and madrasas all in one place. Not everything is in top conditions, in this ancient city that once counted 80,000 inhabitants, but it is the Roman Theatre that makes your jaw drop. Bashar, had taken me to Bosra in his car from Damascus and after climbing a couple of stairs inside the complex he said, “Take out your camera” – the gigantic theater opened up in front of me. Ove the next 1000 years it was skillfully integrated into the later fortifications creating a strong citadel guarding the road to Damascus.
Video
Other highlights are the Madrasah Mabrak al-Naqua, one of the oldest and most celebrated of Islam and the Omari-Mosque, one of the oldest surviving mosques in Islamic history, unfortunately there is a really ugly roof on top of it.
Foto mosquq
The remains of the 6th century Basilica of Bosra of the martyrs Sergios, Bacchos and Leontios, also a building of considerable importance of early Christian architecture.
Bosra in 2025
Churches in Ancient Bosra
We had the whole place to ourself, there was one other Syrian family there.What struck me was the dark color of the monuments in ancient Bosra. It is local, black basalt used for constructing the buildings. It did not provide the city with a unique visual character, but this durable material was meant to last.
Something everybody wishes when visiting such an important historic sight, but it is also a sad reminder that Syria is still not considered a safe travel destination by main tour operators.
Walking thorugh the site, Bashar repeatedly pointed at monuments that were knocked out, or covered with graffiti.
Stupid graffitti on wall that are 2500 years old
He got particularily angry when we came across holes dug into the ground. Since the Islamists took over security has been left to a couple of young men hang out at the entrance, this is also where they sleep.
Illegal digging for treasures
Professional security does not exist- young men of the new regime camp out at the entrance
In one room we found the parts of what looked like once heavy weapons. Many places had grafitti on it, “down with Assad” so this must have been done in 2025
Parts of weapons left behind
Parts of weapons left behind
Down with Assad- Graffiti
Life within ancient Bosra
Not until too long ago people lived in the ancient buidlings, window and door are clearly added
The family lives within the archaeological site
The family lives within the archaeological site
Owner of souvenir shop in Bosra and Bashar my driver
sipping tea from swan-shaped cups at souvenir shop in Bosra
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