Damascus is packed with churches of every possible Christian denomination, from Greek Catholic to Armenian Orthodox and everything in between. In 2019 my last day in Syria was Easter Sunday, the churches and streets of Old Damascus were filled with Syrian Christians celebrating Easter. Given the many different Christian congregations, it see as many parades as possible made it a busy day. I attended mess at the Maronite Church, the singing was beautiful and a perfect hour long, then I hit the streets to watch marching bands of each congregation heading towards their particular church. The streets are lined with onlookers, often proud parents waving and taking photos of their parading children in uniform.
Easter Sunday in Damascus
Syria was one of the first places in the world to have a Christian community – the community is mentioned in the Book of Acts and St Paul’s famous conversion on the road to Damascus.
Before the war began in 2011, approximately 1.5 million – 10% of the Syrian population – were Christians. The number is thought to have dropped sharply in recent years, but by how much is unclear. There could now be as few as 300,000 Christians left in Syria today.
Christians predominately live in and around the cities of Damascus, Aleppo, Homs, Hama, Latakia
Easter Sunday in Damascus
More than 120 churches and Christian places of worship were destroyed during the civil war.
But the main reason that Christian families have left Syria is not persecution, but the deteriorating living conditions, lack of employment or education opportunities, escalating living costs and dangers caused by fighting.
Orthodox Armenian Church, Damascus
Mass in Armenian Church
Easter parade in Damaskus
The Armenian band was easy to identify by their armband reminding of the Armenian genocide. Apart from the marches and different rituals, people watching was the other highlight. It was a cool April day, while many of the girls were dressed in super short skirts and sleeveless blouses, I could not keep up with the local dress code for Easter Sunday. The temperature did not rise above 7 degrees in Damascus and I wore pajamas under my jeans.
Easter Sunday outfit at 8 degree Celsius
Christians of Damascus joining the Easter Sunday procession
Proud parents waving and taking photos of their parading children in uniform.
During the processions, security was tight, heavily armed soldiers everywhere. I did not know if this was normal procedure or a reaction to the attack on Christian churches in Sri Lanka that very morning. This cowardly act of terror was one more reason to attend the ceremonies. Never be guided by fear.
Soldiers protecting the Christian
Looking for a bite to eat I found this restaurant in a back alley. The Armenian community was partying hard. I was served food that would feed 4 people and an arak was another must. Then the funniest thing happened: a small girl came up to me and said “nastrovje”.
Armenian run restaurant on Easter Sunday
Armenian restaurant on Easter Sunday
When I rerturned in 2023, the situation was less raw than in 2010, the dresses were different, flashier
Easter Sunday in Damaskus in 2023
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