Mtskheta is one of the oldest cities in Georgia, and was the original capital. The city is best known for Jvari, the impressive mountaintop monastery that overlooks the confluence of the Aragvi and Mtkvari rivers. The other main sight is the 4th century Svetitskoveli Cathedral, one of Georgia’s oldest and largest churches. Georgia’s entire national history and heritage of Christianity is on display in Mtskheta Literally every tourist visiting Georgia comes here, it’s just 20km north of Tbilisi.
Jvari Monastery
Jvari Monastery, perched atop a rocky cliff overlooking Mtskhis is the most famous landmark in Mtskheta and best visited in the morning. Jvari dates back to the 6th century and is tied to the story of Saint Nino, one of Georgia’s patron saints and the woman responsible for spreading Christianity through this territory. As the story goes, this was the first place Saint Nino arrived after returning to Georgia from Armenia. Finding a pagan temple on this site, she erected a large cross – famously crafted from twisted grape vines fasted together with stands of her own hair – making this one of the country’s first Christian pilgrimage sites. The stone church was added later, between 590-605 AD.
Cross in yard of Samtavros Convent
Jvari Monastery
It’s said that King Mirian III and Queen Nana of Iberia – the first Georgian monarchs to embrace Christianity – were baptised by Saint Nino at the point where the rivers converge.
When it was constructed, Jvari had an underground tunnel network that led all the way down the hill and under the river to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. Under threat of invasion, monks would deliver the Holy Relics from the cathedral up to Jvari via the tunnel for safekeeping.
Jvari Monastery – view from Mtsketa’s riverfront
Svetitskhoveli Cathedral -Church of the Living Pillar’.
This is the ‘First Georgian Church’, erected on a spot chosen by Saint Nino herself. It houses dozens of precious relics, including (what is believed to be) Christ’s Mantle, a 4th century baptismal font, and a piece of cedar wood salvaged from the original structure.
Woman praying in Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in the historic town of Mtskheta, Georgia
Inside Svetitskhoveli Cathedral
Inside Svetitskhoveli Cathedral
Samtavros Convent
We arrived rather late and were not allowed inside the church, we tried to persuade the nuns, but no mercy. Funnily enough when we were ushered out through the big gate, Georgians managed to come in.
Samtavros Convent is pretty much in the centre of Mtskheta, a chapel and active nunnery enclosed in a fortress-like wall. Established in the 4th century and of course also has a history with Saint Nino.
King Mirian and Queen Nana are also buried at this church. You can see their twin stone sarcophagi housed in a small stone pavilion at the opposite corner of the church. Two exquisite glass and stone mosaics hang above the graves.
Gate of Samtavros Content
Gate of Samtavros Convent
Samtavros Convent
Old Mtskheta City
There are pedestrianised streets around Svetitskhoveli Square where vendors set up market stalls and souvenir shops. You can pretty much buy anything here. This is a very touristy area.
Vendors outside Svetitskhoveli Church
Large orchards in the middle of Mtskheta
We did a lot of walking up and down the hilf streets of Mtskheta and came across tjhe most beautiful orchards
Fig trees inside large garden in the middle of Mtskheta
Almost every house in Mtskheta has some kind of orchard
I travelled to Georgia during the Summer Olympics 2024
Georgian Cuisine
I came with very high expectations. Georgian cooking had a certain ring in my car. Maybe, I thought if the have good wine the food must be equally great.
To be honest, I soon got tired of Khinkali and the cheese pies and also the hyped Churchkhela – walnuts coated in grape syrup – left me untouched.
Cheese is staple food, zocket into a large variety of meals, I talk about lots of cheese.
Khachapuri Adjaruli – you musst like Cheeseburger, lots of Cheeseburger and eggs
khinkali, or Georgian soup dumpling,
Khinkali come in all seizes and are eating by using your hands, Unfortunately nobody told me that that dry topknot is not to be eaten. So do not make the same msitake: grab the dumpling by its topknot, bite a small hole in the side, tilt your head back to slurp out the broth, before sinking your teeth into the filling. Discard the topknot.
Churchkhela – Walnuss coated in grape syrup
Tthe most eye-catching Georgian food of all, churchkhela are the colorful confections hanging in storefront windows, which tourists often mistake for sausages. Making churchkhela takes patience and practice: Concentrated grape juice is poured repeatedly over strands of walnuts. Each layer is left to dry until a chewy, waxy exterior envelops the nuts. Packed with protein and sugar, churchkhela was used by the Georgian military.
Khavitsi – cheese boiled in melted butter
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