When I returned to Syria in 2023 I finally was able to visit Palmyra. In 2019 the road was still considered a bit iffy. We drove there from Homs on an absolutely deserted highway. I cannot remember passing any roadblocks, but the heavily protected checkpoints were sad reminders that security was an issue not too long ago.
In 2015 the world was shocked to learn about the barbarous acts of IS. After seizing the ancient city of Palmyra in 2015, Islamic State militants started a campaign of destruction on cultural monuments and committed barbaric assaults on the people, like the head archaeologist of Palmyra was Khaled Mohamad al-Asaad.
Empty roads on the way to Palmyra 2023
The destruction of Palmyra’s magnificent monuments provoked an international outcry and prompted media attention, some reports led o the false impression that all of Palmyra had fallen victim to the horrible deeds of the IS death cult. Luckily this was not true, but some treasures were indeed blown up. During the first occupation May 2015 to March 2016 they blew up the Baalschamin-Temple, the Baal-Tempel and Hadrian’s Gate. At the end of 2017 the IS terrorists were back, then parts of the antique Roman theater were destroyed, the theater was also the place people were executated.
The Temple of Baal was considered the best preserved temple at Palmyra, now there is only one big column remaining and a big pile of rubble.
It really was sad to look at columns and temples that lasted thousands of years and IS was able to blast them away in a few moments.
The postcard shows the Temple of Baal- in the background what is left after IS blew it up
Khalid Mohamd Al Assad the father of Palmyra
Our first stop was at the museum of Palmyra. Immediately after entering the museum, I was struck by the portrait of the head archaeologist of Palmyra, Khalid Mohamad al-Assad, sitting a chair. To me this was such a touching, but also helpless gesture by the staff. That’s all they could do to honour this great man. For the world-renowned scholar Khaled al-Assad, the ancient site of Palmyra was his home and his life. He served as a director of Palmyra for 40 years and worked with many institutions all over the world. On August 18th in 2015 Khalid Al Asaad, 82 years old, was beheaded on a square in front of the museum in Tandor, the city next to ancient Palmyra. His Corps was publicly displayed by hanging him from a lampost.
Museum of Palmyra
Head archaeologist Khalid Mohamad Al -Assad tortured and killed by IS
The museum itself is still intakt, but walking around inside I felt like crying. Empty spots on the walls reminded that until 2015 these were adorned with some of the world’s most precious artifects.
Fortunately, before ISIS took control of Palmyra much of what was inside the museum was transported to Damascus for safe keeping, but still quite a lot was robbed and sold by IS. News about precious artifects from the museum being confiscated at the Turkish border are still in the news, years after IS was driven from Palmyra. in 2018 a sculpture worth €12 million was detected that was about to be smuggled abroad. One way how ISIS funds its terrorism.
Inside the museum
Inside the museum
We wandered around the large archaeological park full of ancient wonders, except one Syrian couple we had the place to ourselves. Of course this what everybody wishes for, but on the other hand it was a sad reminder of Syria present history and that most people still consider it a place too dangerous to travel.
Palmyra 2023
Great Colonnade at Palmyra
Palmyra 2023
The video shows the theater and the pile of rubble that was once the stage backdrop.
In a town itself we could see a lot of destruction as well. In was once Syria’s top tourist destination, in 2023 we did not find one single hotel. We were the only tourists, except a young Syrian couple.
In 2022 a local had set up a tent outside of the archaeological park. At least you get food and drinks there, and faded picture postcards from happier times.
Tent outside the archeological park serving as a restaurant.
Zenobia – Queen of Palmyra a Syrian legend
Palmyra was at one point a big part of the Roman Empire, a stopping point for caravans on the silk road. This made Palmyra a wealthy oasis in the desert, and that is why there are so many temples and tombs of rich merchants.
Zenobia is a Syrian legend, after her husband was assassinated she became the queen of Palmyra in 267 AD. She was well educated and preached tolerance for her subjects and religious minorities and made the Palmyrene empire a very stable place during her reign. Eventually the Romans conquered it back and exiled Zenobia to Rome. Today she is still loved by Syrians.
The murdered head archaeologist Khalid Mohamad Al -Assad named one of his daughter after Zenobia, in honor of the famous queen.
This is an how some people pictures her
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