For a first-time visitor, the most obvious, striking feature of Tbilisi were the different looks of the city: from beautifully renovated, to run-down buildings, still with lots of charm, Soviet tower blocks and not to forget Tibilis’s famous brutalist buildings. Anything but organised, and this is exactly how my arrival was.
Tbilisi
My taxi dropped me off at the address given by the hotel, only there was no hotel to be seen. The waiter of a nearby bar also knew of no hotel and I was about to get nervous, when he pointed out what would go for an apartment building. That’s what is was, an apartment building turned into hotel. To make matters worse during the few days there it even changed its name, from Tbilisi Pool Hotel to something else, I don’t even want to know why. To show my appreciation I went back to the bar for a drink, which turned out to be a kind of museum, the house of a famous Tbilisi artist.
My first glass of Georgian wine in an artists house
Sioni Cathedral
My first morning walk took my to Sioni Cathedral which was expecting an important guest as it seemed. A red carpet was put into the entrance, priests were running around excitedly and eventually a caravan of huge expensive cars pulled up in front of the church. The noise of the bells ringing was deafening. A tall important-looking priest got out, ignored all the people around who were bowing and showing their respect.
Naturally my curiosity made me follow the entourage. Inside, lots of priest clad in heavily decored cloth milled around a high priest. The minor priests all looked as if they had a serious alcohol problem.
Sioni was once the main cathedral of the country and houses the ancient relic of the Cross of Saint Nino, made from grapevines. Saint Nino is believed to have played a crucial role in bringing Christianity in Georgia. Right across from the church is red-back-stone priest seminary.
Anti-Russia – Pro EU- graffiti
Most striking in Tbilisi are the omnipresent anti-Russian graffiti, especially in the old town of Tbilisi. Considering the large number of Russians living/working in Tbilisi, this was surprising. most of these Russians are young men who crossed into this neighboring country avoiding the draft. The Ukraine flag was equally present and “we are part of EU”
Graffiti in Tbilisi
Graffiti in Tbilisi
Graffiti in Tbilisi
I was there three months before the election and thought it had something to do with it, but locals explained that this has been like this a long time.
Walking Tbilisi
Freedom Square Tbilisi
Since we only had two days before heading north to the Caucasus Mountains, to Kabezi, we decided to book a local guide to take us around Tbilisi, to the most important sight within two hours. Such tours always starts off on Freedom Square,THE place to meet in Tbilisi. But you have to be precise because it its big.
Tbilisi
The old Sulphur Bath
Tbilisi
Parliament – for months it was the site of demonstrations demanding more democracy
Two Austrian parlamentarians in front of Georgia’s Parliament
Tbilisi Conference on Peace and Stability
This trip also meant a bit of work – attending a one day conference that focused mainly of everything evolving around the war in Ukraine, like the enormous environmental damage and the threat it poses to animals.
Conference of Green European foundation at farika
Conference of Green European foundation at farika
This conference took place at fabrika, the most wonderful accommodation in Tbilisi. An old textile factory turned into hotel, the courtyard is packed every night with young people from all over the world and locals alike. Since the place is super large, there is plenty of space for conferences, meeting rooms etc.
Inside fabrika
the outdoor area-at night the place is packed, humming with young voices
We were so fascinated by the hotel/bar venue fabrika that I did some asking and research. The person who created this cool place also bought other old industrial buildings and turned them in to expensive hotels. The decoration in all of them is exquisite. each aiming at a different type of customers.
Expensive sister hotel of fabrika
The Dry Bridge Flea Market
The market started in the ‘dark 90s’ after the collapse of communism. Locals would gather here to make a little cash by selling their personal possessions.
At some point, the market turned into something more formal and today, the Dry Bridge Flea Market is primarily aimed at tourists.
Dry Bridge Flea Market
Dry Bridge Flea Market
Dry Bridge Flea Market
Dry Bridge Flea Market
The Dry Bridge is most commonly associated with Soviet kitsch and USSR memorabilia. You’ll find stacks of war medals, books, photographs and the like. Stalin and Lenin show up a lot, as does the hammer and sickle.
Meeting Giorgi
I met Giorgi while fighting my way up to Gergeti Church on a Caucasus mountain top in Kabezi. I was much slower than my fellow hikers, falling behind, inching my way to the top. There were hardly any other people around, so when I finally came across a fellow hiker, I chatted him up. We started talking and ended up meeting again in Tbilisi.
Local restaurant with Giorgi
Giorgi joined us for the conference in Tbilisi, took us to local restaurants, helped me to get my lost passport back and on my last day he took me up the mountain to the Monument of Mother of Georgia by cable car. The view of Tbilisi from up there is breathtaking. Be aware the line for the cable car around sunset are long!
View from Monument of Mother of Georgia
Monument of Mother of Georgia
A former politition and millionaire had his mansion built up there, in the middle of the woods. with an accessory common among his kind – helicopter landing pad.
Our watering hole
On the very first day we discovered what became our favorite restaurant, inside of what once was a house. No roof, few tables, lots of seats on an arena-like setting and a round brick grill, only some walls of the building were partially left. The place was packed with Russians, the food was excellent and the wine great. And it was expensive, but we did not care. One night a gipsy band played on the roof of a garage. We ordered some wine for them, which the waiter balanced the tray all the way up.
What I did not get to see, but had planned where the railway cars that serve as homes and the old Soviet apartment towers that are connected by bridges. Next trip, definately.
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