There is ONE train per day that connects the two capitals of neighboring countries- Riga/Latvia to Vilnus/Lithuania. Prettty unbelievable for a spoiled Austrian train enthusiast. The train was packed with holiday makers, a family of 9 adults and six children was on board and was baffled how easily they handled tons of luggage, baby trollers and kids. The train was super comfortable, young ladies served coffee, snacks and instant soup, even the dogs were treated well.
Arriving in Vilnus
Riding from Riga to Vilnus
coffee and instant soup was served on demand
Train Riga to Vilnus- dogs are also treated well
In 1983, I stayed in Vilnus for one day, coming from St. Petersburg, then Leningrad. I remembered nothing, but arriving by train and that the blankets in the hotel were attached to the beds with little chains, obviously people had stolen them. So I could not compare was it was like back then.
Vilnus history center – overrenovated
2024 Vilnus is beautifully renovated, a bit too much maybe.
Vilnus
Vilnus
Vilnus
I booked a city bike straight away, a habit I started in Tartu. It is such a great way to explore a city, without walking your feet sore. In Vilnus the bike system was very strict, it shuts down if you enter a no-go-zone, or slows you down completely.
Scooters for rent Vilnus
The cobble-stoned streets (not the best way for bike rides) are lined with restaurants for each taste. I stayed in the very comfortable Novotel Hotel right in the center but only for one night, over the weekend prices doubled.
Novotel Vilnus
Novotel Vilnus
Soviet Vilnus – with little Soviet touch
Before I left Vilnus I took a tour called “Soviet Vilnus”, which was really disappointing. There is really not much left from those days. The stories told by the young man were maybe interesting for those in the small group who had never visited Eastern Bloc countries before 1989. A few things were new to me: about Lithuanian resistence groups that were betrayed and the demonstrations in 1990 that defied the Soviet tanks. The guide showed us a photo of such a tank taken by his mother.
Lithuania resistance against German + Soviet occupation
abandoned sport stadium – Soviet architecture
Foto taken 1991 in Vilnus during struggle for liberation from Soviet Union
Vilnus street art
Vilnus – artistic installation
Hotel where tourists stayed during Soviet days
My original plan was to go to nearby Minsk for a couple of days, since this city was part of my trip in 1983. Hard to believe but I never checked when my visa was running out.
So when I was at the bus station in Vilnus trying to buy the ticket, I was in for two surprises. First of all, all tickets were sold out for the next two days. Quickly I decided to go to Kaunas, come back and then travel to Minsk. The lady at the ticket counter checked the visa in my passport, then handed it back to me “Your visa ends tomorrow”. So this was the end of my plans going to Minsk and I went straigtht to Kaunas, not knowing what to expect. The name Kaunas had popped up when I googled what to do in Lithuania.
Lukiškės Prison turned Artistic Venue
On the way to the train station I passed a weird looking building, so I biked around it and got to the gate, where lots of young people were lining up. It was a former high-security prison turned art venue.
For 115 years, Lukiškės Prison was guarded by high walls and barbed wire, but today the site is open to the public. From prison to artistic venue, a new version – Lukiškės Prison 2.0 – is home to 250 creators and artists, and a place where curious spirits can learn and explore.
Lukiškės Prison once guarded by high walls/barbed wire, now an artistic venue
Time to move on – next stop Kaunas near the border to Kaliningrad
Heading to Kaunas, former capital of Lithuania
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