Jeddah was my absolute favorite stop during my first trip to Saudi Arabia in 2022 — mostly because it was actually walkable. A long ocean-front park stretches all the way from the Floating Mosque to Al-Balad, and both places fill with Saudis in the evenings.
Any trip to Jeddah feels like traveling alongside pilgrims. Many are wrapped in thick, towel-like white cloths. Jeddah is the gateway for pilgrimages to Mecca and Medina.
Al-Balad, ancient houses made of coral-stone now being renovated
In 2022, there was no place in Saudi Arabia where Vision 2030 felt more visible — the massive project, launched in 2016, to diversify the economy and reduce dependence on oil by developing tourism, healthcare, education, and technology.
large advertisments promoting aktivities in Jeddah
Reviving Al-Balad
Jeddah’s historic center, Al-Balad, is a captivating glimpse into the city’s rich past. Famous for its 500+ coral-stone houses, many of which date back centuries, Al-Balad is a treasure trove of architectural heritage. The homes are adorned with wooden balconies called rawashin, which not only add charm but also serve practical purposes: they protect the interior from harsh sunlight, keep the living quarters cool in the desert heat, and provide privacy. Walking through
Al-Balad
My first mistake was wandering around during the day. Most shops were closed, and the only people around were construction workers. Many houses are still in bad shape, and large and numerous signs “Ministry of Culture” suggest restoration is only just beginning.
Al- Balad dilapidated houses about to be renovated
Al-Balad, cozy corners but deserted during the day
At night, though, Al-Balad comes to life — souqs filled with handmade crafts, spices, jewelry, and textiles. Whether the revival succeeds will depend on how many cafés, shops, and restaurants eventually return. There are a few already, along with a small museum, but it still feels like the beginning of something.
Saudi families on the Corniche
The south of Al-Balad is full of jewellry shop
Material for making thawb, the white ankle-long attire for men
Being the only Western tourist sometimes felt awkward. Once, I spotted a small group of Indian visitors with a guide and simply joined them — suddenly, I felt less exposed and more like I belonged.
Biedermeier coffee from Vienna
Biedermeier coffee from Vienna
root-top café in Jeddah
Ocean-front Walk
At the northern end of the corniche stands Jeddah’s Floating Mosque, which really does seem to hover above the water at high tide — especially beautiful at sunset. Like everywhere in Saudi Arabia, the place buzzes at night with families enjoying the breeze and the greenery.
Ocean front walk
Floating Mosque
My hotel wasn’t far away — I could see it from the rooftop terrace. It was popular with pilgrims from Indonesia, so most of the food served was Indonesian. In the evenings, men gathered on the terrace, some wrapped in the white cloth worn by pilgrims, called Ihram.
Jeddah – Fish Market
One of the most memorable experiences was the fish market. I met a British woman on the plane and we did some exploring together, like walking to the fish market, which was really far and drivers gave aus surprised looks. I was really glas not to be alone. Two Europeans walking in the middle of nowhere is not a common sites in Saudi Arabia.
fit market, buy and have it cooked right there
this beautiful parrot fish – I could have never eaten such a beauty
Once we arrived, we couldn’t believe the variety of fish on offer — some still jumping around, others so brightly colored they looked unreal.
Luckily, we met a Pakistani vendor who spoke English and told us there was a restaurant on-site where they could cook whatever we bought. It was so affordable that we splurged: lobster, king prawns, and much more — probably too much, as it turned out.
Finding the restaurant wasn’t easy at first. Our guide pointed to a door, which opened onto a crowded room full of young men. Amanda and I hesitated, but he reassured us: “It is okay now,” referring to the easing of gender separation rules. Feeling a bit uneasy, we decided to stick to the family section instead. It was a small but striking reminder of how quickly Saudi Arabia is changing — sometimes faster than our own mindset could keep up with.
Amanda and me enjoying our catch in the family section
family section – small cubicles with a plastic sheet providing privacy
There was a whole procedure to eating the fish we had chosen at the market. First, we picked out the fish, then took them to a station where they were weighed, cleaned, and prepared for cooking.
The men doing the cleaning were all Filipino. For a small tip, I was even allowed to step closer and record a short video — a little behind-the-scenes glimpse that made the experience feel more personal and memorable.
Cleaning section
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