The idea to travel to Saudi Arabia had been lingering in my head or some time. Having travelled a lot in the Middle East, I knew next to nothing what is was like travelling Saudi Arabia. I had friends how had been there with organised tours but sole female travellers were not allowed in then. That changed in 2019, online visas were granted to everybody, within 15 minutes for US 90.
The trip was more than spontaneous- the day before my birthday a cheap flight was offered from Budapest to Rijadh. It was a holiday week in February, I booked and took off.
Edge of the World
I was wondering, if I would even get a visa, since I was a regular participant of a vigil demanding the release of Raif Badawi. This Saudi blogger who was jailed for 10 years for insulting Islam. What he did was criticing the power of the clery in Saudi Arabia, and acknowling that all religions were equal. In 2023 Raid Badawi was released but still cannot leave the country, while his family moved ot Canada in 2012, the year he was jailed. Till I passed immigration I was worrying about not be able to enter because of my political activities. Just the opposite, the welcome was overwhelming.
Dressing for Saudi Arabia
I was unsure of how to dress to find out it did not really matter. Leaving the plane I looked around, none of the European women was wearing a head scarf, so I figured I was fine without. It was February and rather chilly in the evenings so, I was never tempted to dress to do
In 2025 things had changed. There were a lot more tourists, besides I visited Saudi Arabia’s most popular tourist destination – Al- Ula. Young Chinese women ran around in Dresses I would not wear in Vienna, but nobody somebody to be bothered.
Arriving in Al-Ula airport
Chinese tourists seemed to have the least concerns when it came to dress codes
Where did I go in 2023?
I explored Riyadh and its surrounding, travelling from Riyahd to Jeddah by plane and from Jeddah to Medina and back by train. All super easy. Saudia Arabia has had long experience with tourists from all over the world, but till 2019 this was almost exclusively for religious travel.
Great visits around Riyadh: Edge of the World – Diriyah – Boulevard World
Difficulties in 2023?
What really annoyed was that I had to travel by taxi/Uber everywhere in Rijadh. In 2023 the metro in Rijad ad not opened yet. There were not many Ubers and sometimes I had to wait very long. Flagging down a regular taxi was taking a chance, I had guys who spoke no English, i.e National Museum could not be communicated. Now with the metro things are so much easier. One trip is 4 rial, first class 10 rial. You simple swipe your creditcard across the reader and you are in.
Metro in Riyadh was a game changer – now tourists were part of daily life
The only other issue I had when all of a sudden ALL hotels in Riyadh were booked out. I had to move out of my hotel, the Ibis and started looking with the her of a taxi driver. I was getting desperate, not vacancy anywhere. At one Point heasked I would stay at an Indian-run place, for Indian Migrant workers. I had an apartment to myself for US20, I was so happy I could not believe it and the other guests, all men, were super nice and considerate.
Returning in 2025
In 2025 I returned for a big conference in Riyadh, but of course I wanted to use this trip to see what I had missed out in 2023. Al-Ula had top priority, the “Petra” of Saudi Arabia. A place with ancient tombs from Nabatean times, incredible rock formations, the biggest mirror in the middle of the desert and working oasis.
I was amazed by the many tourist that all of a sudden seems to have ascended onto the country, especially Chinese had arrived in large numbers. Not in groups but rather young people, often couples or friends.
The conference made me see Riyadh from a complete different perspective. We learned about all the projects that will transform Riyadh to a more resilient city to cope with its every growing population and global warming.
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