Going from Atbara to Karima you need to cross the Bayuda Desert. For many hours we stared at the pancake-flat landscape flying by, once in a while low bushes, sometimes we could see mountains in the background. All of a sudden we spotted patches of green that soon turned in large palm groves. We were approaching Karima.
Karima, an oasis
The pyramids – perched on a sandy ridge – are a truly breathtaking sight, especially at sun set when the dunes and the pyramids takes on a spectacular reddish glow. What makes them so very special is the unknown of the attraction.
Naqa and Mussawarrat are the two archaeological sights closest to Khartoum, but they only ones that require your own vehicle, ideally a four-wheel drive. We were so lucky, Dominique an widely travelled English guy we befriended in our hotel in Khartoum just took us along. Early in the morning we headed north towards Atbara, stopping in the outskirts of Khartoum to buy fresh bread, sip tea and watch the city come to life.
Khartoum outskirts, shopping for breakfast
Small town Shendi seemed the perfect place for exploring the Pyramids of Meroe and the archeological site of Naqa and Mussawarrat. That was the plan, it did not materialize, but staying in Shendi was a unique experience and it turned into one of those unplanned adventures that will always be remembered. Set right on the Nile, it was almost heartbreaking to watch the enormous potential of Shendi not being used at a gateway to the Pyramids of Meroe and Naqa and Mussawarrat nearby. Day trips from Khartoum to these places are US 260, only to visit the sights at the height of the heat.
Shendi – view of the River Nile from our room at El Kawther Hotel
The owner of Hotel Acropole got us tickets to the New Year’s Eve Party at the Germany Embassy for US60. It will always be remembered as the best New Year’s Party ever. The “Who is Who” of Khartoum was present, diplomats, businesspeople from all corners of the world as well as lots of Sudanese.
New Year’s Party in the garden of the German Embassy in Khartoum
Omdurman, in north-western Khartoum,is where we found most of the city’s sights: the Mahdi’s Tomb, the Khalida’s House, Sudan’s largest Souk and the ultimate highlight of any visit to Khartoum, the Dancing Dervishes. Every Friday they gather at the Tomb of Skeikh Hamed al Nil set in the middle of a Sufi cemetery.
Crowd gathering at the Shrine of Sheikh Hamed al Nil for serious dancing, chanting, drumming
Khartoum – the very name makes most people’s phantasies go wild, since so little is known about the capital of Sudan. Well, there is actually a lot to explore if you take your time and we certainly did. The confluence of the Blue and White Nile is probably the most famous sight in Khartoum. Unfortunately, most visitors simply drive across the bridge and look down, since the closest place to the watch the two rivers merge is officially closed, Mogran Family Park. There used to be a fairy-wheel that provided a superb view, but it has been dismantled years ago, like all the other rides. That would not keep Kelly and me from going there anyway, what we discovered was the most bizarre place.
Confluence of the Nile
Waking after a few hours of sleep in newly arrived Khartoum, we learned the the weekly camel market at Muehjle was held precisely that very day. One of the places I was very eager to see in Sudan, but to go there after only a few hours of sleep was not really appealing. Kelly and I were dead tired, our flight had arrived at 2am and we had planned to spend the day leisurely in Khartoum. Besides US 60 for a car plus driver seemed a lot. Well, we were so glad we did it, it was such a great experience. The camels are bread in Darfur and are walked all the way up to Khartoum where they are sold and put on trucks to be finally sold and slaughtered in Egypt. In former days the camels walked all the way to their deaths, which took them 24 days.
Camel Market of Muehlje
I traveled northern Sudan in December/January 2017 for two weeks with my 18 year-old niece. We used only public transport, except when visiting the archeological sights of Naqa and Mussawarrat. Going there you need a private vehicle, most likely a four-wheel drive which we shared with another traveler. We went as far north as Karima and stayed overnight in Khartoum, Shendi, at the Pyramids of Meroe and Karima. There are detailed blog entries on each of these places. To sum it up – one of my best trips ever.
Kelly and I enjoying the sunset with an incredible backdrop – the Pyramids of Meroe
