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Axum’s Stelae

The Great Stele, Main Stelae Field, Aksum, Ethiopia

The Great Stele, Main Stelae Field, Aksum, Ethiopia

What has put Axum on the tourist radar goes beyond Christian times. Superbly carved Stelae from those times still point 35 meters into the sky. Then they marked the tombs of royalty and nobility. Continue Reading →

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The Falashas – Ethiopia’s Black Jews

Wolleka, a Falasha Village near Gonder, Ethiopia

Wolleka, a Falasha Village near Gonder, Ethiopia

Driving back to Gonder from the Siam Mountains, we passed through a former Falasha Village, a reminder of Ethiopia’s black Jews. Nowadays, only two of the Falashas live in the village. The old synagogue is mainly for the few tourists passing by, together with the many souvenir shops selling kitsch made from clay displaying King Solomon in love with the Queen of Sheba and the omnipresent Star of David. But these have to be covered by plastic sheets, otherwise they would become one with the dust carried from the nearby road. Continue Reading →

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A Glimpse Of The Simean Mountains For 100 USD

Kosoye, a Viewpoint on the Simien Mountains, Simian Mountains National Park, Ethiopia

Kosoye, a Viewpoint on the Simien Mountains, Simian Mountains National Park, Ethiopia

Most tourists travel Ethiopia through pre-arranged tours. The lack of infrastructure, like reliable public transport, good roads and often the sheer impossibility to make a reservation from abroad are real shortcomings. Add eMails that bounce back, incorrect phone numbers and few people who speak English! Continue Reading →

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“Faranjis” Do Not Walk

Market in Lalibela, Ethiopia

Market in Lalibela, Ethiopia

Walking the streets of Gonder all day we found them surprisingly void of foreigners. Like in Bahir Dar, we only encountered tourists at historic landmarks or at certain restaurants and hotels. In Gonder, the Faranji hangout was nice Hotel Quara, with its huge terrace overlooking the Piazza. This is basically a huge roundabout without hardly any traffic, Gonder’s very center. Continue Reading →

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Gondar – Ancient Capital Of Ethiopia Versus Modern Times

Fasilida's Casstle, Fasil Ghebbi, the Royal Enclosure, Gonder, Ethiopia

Fasilida’s Casstle, Fasil Ghebbi, the Royal Enclosure, Gonder, Ethiopia

Modern day Gondar we found a city of extremes – modern urbanites lives in stark contrast with those just surviving in heart breaking poverty. Every evening, the bar of our hotel was packed with cheerful locals eating well and guzzling down beer after beer. Outside, old men hid from the chilly nights under pieces of corrugated iron. Continue Reading →

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Blue Nile Under Military Rule

The Source of the Blue Nile at Lake Tana, Bahir Dar, Ethiopia

The Source of the Blue Nile at Lake Tana, Bahir Dar, Ethiopia

The Blue Nile gently carried our small boat through its outlet from Lake Tana. Indeed a moving experience. We imagined weary explorers worn down by malaria and exhausted by their rough journey, finally reaching the very place people have fantasized about for thousands of years… Continue Reading →

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Monastery Crawl On Lake Tana

Bet Maryam Monastery, Lake Tana, Bahir Dar, Ethiopia

Bet Maryam Monastery, Lake Tana, Bahir Dar, Ethiopia

These 16th and 17th century monasteries do not look like anything we expect a monastery to look like. First of all, they are circular building. Straw maps shield the walkway that circles the very church. The top of the roof is adorned with a heavy iron cross, often decorated with ostrich eggs. The inside of these monasteries are decorated with the most spectacular colorful wall paintings, telling the story of the bible and many more legends. Continue Reading →

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Ancient Monasteries Saying Farewell To The Blue Nile

Bet Maryam Monastery, Lake Tana, Bahir Dar, Ethiopia

Bet Maryam Monastery, Lake Tana, Bahir Dar, Ethiopia

The picturesque town of Bahir Dar is the gateway to over 40 ancient monasteries that dot the shores and islands of Lake Tana. It is also the source of the Blue Nile, which fascinated ancient Egyptians and modern day explorers alike. Even 21st century tourists are still drawn in by the romanticizing tales and exotic flair. Continue Reading →

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Leaving Vienna For The Hadj

Lake Tana & Bahir Dar from a Plane, Ethiopia

Lake Tana & Bahir Dar from a Plane, Ethiopia

The always extremely busy Turkish Airlines check-in at Vienna Airport underwent its ultimate test. A large group of pilgrims was heading for Jeddah. Putting this behind, we soon were in for new cultural experience. The restroom at the gate was packed with mostly elderly pilgrims. Skillfully, they lifted their feet into the washbasin, giving them a good scrub. Weirdly, none of this could be observed during our five hour stop over at Istanbul Airport. Continue Reading →

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