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Khor Virap Monastery comes with a view

Khor Virap

Mount Ararat, 5300m, Khor Virap Monastery

From Khor Virap Monastery the view of Mount Ararat is unbeatable, but unfortunately its summit is almost always hidden behind thick clouds. Therefore, I had watched the weather forecast carefully, and Monday March 21st, was the day to do it! Clear skies, off to Khor Virap.

Though Mount Ararat is 8km across the border onTurkish territory, this 5,300m high mountain seems so close. While marveling at its beauty you wonder where exactly Noah’s Ark stranded on the mountain, during the biblical flood.  If you have time to visit only one monastery while in Armenia, choose this one. Continue Reading →

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Armenia’s South – Goris

Goris - rock formation and ancient cave dwellings

Goris – rock formation and ancient cave dwellings

Ancient Goris

The absolute highlights in Goris are the majestic and bizarre rock formations. Many are punctured with wide caves hewn into the soft rock where people used to live and shelter their animals. Accounts of a Greek historian mention cavemen living here in the 5th century BC, now beat that. This sight came completely unexpected, since my guidebook did not mention it.

The scenery is really dramatic; spires rise up into the sky from the very green carpet of grass that covers the less vertical parts, with a huge cemetery at its feet. It was definitely worth walking up to the feet of the rocks: great view with the river below, snow covered mountains around it, all in a secluded valley. Continue Reading →

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Yerevan beyond the radio

I didn’t know what to expect. All I ever associated with Yervan was the bad joke about Radio Yerevan during Communist days. By and by I discovered a thriving, enterprising city. Businesses are open seven days a week, often until late in the evening.

What Yerevan has plenty of is museums. The must-see: the Genocide Museum – a powerful and well-made reminder of the Armenian Genocide in 1915. About 1,5 million Armenians fell victim to the mass killing ordered by the decaying Ottoman Empire.

Genocide Museum

Genocide Memorial and Museum, bleak reminder of the 1,5 million Armenians killed during the 1915 genocide

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Travel Guide To Iran

Grand Escapades’ Travel Guide To Iran – Friendliness, Culture, Modernity: So Far Away From The Clichés!

The Shah Mosque - Maydan-e Imam or Imam Square in Esfahan

The Shah Mosque – Maydan-e Imam or Imam Square in Esfahan

Itinerary And Time Of The Visit

We spent two weeks in Iran in April 2014, and covered the cultural heartland of Iran: Shiraz, Isfahan, Na’In, Yazd, Kashan, Qom & last but not least Teheran. Due to the lack of time, we did not travel the north of the country, nor did we go to the deserts. Continue Reading →

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Budget Guide To Iran

Grand Escapades’ Budget Guide To Iran – Easy To Travel On A Budget!

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Type Of Travel

This was a short trip (2 weeks), with a “flashpacking” to mid-range standard of travel.

As far as hotels are concerned, we chose rather budget guesthouses and hostels, except in Shiraz and Qom, where we splurged a little and enjoyed good mid-range hotels. Otherwise, we were not pinching pennies. Several times we chartered taxis, even for longer trips. This added up, but it was a confortable, relaxing trip. Continue Reading →

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Meeting The Locals in Iran

In Teheran, IranIranian friends in Vienna had arranged a meeting with Sasha and Mahse, a young couple who lives outside of Teheran, making a living by selling compost they produce and giving yoga lessons. Together we visited the National Jewel Museum where the many foreign tourists truly stunned them. They were not aware that tourism had arrived back in Iran. It was a great day that ended with a superb dinner in the home of Sasha’s sister. Sasha and Mahse both studied in India and definitely represent the very secular Iran. We truly hope to meet them again. Continue Reading →

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Skiing In Teheran

Iran-186Our visit to the royal summer palace brought us to the very north of Teheran, so close to the nearby Alborz Mountain Range. So why not check out the skiing area? From the last subway stop at Tajrish Square it is short cab ride to the Tochal Telecabin, which brings you to the fourth highest ski field in the world. The cabins are tiny, but were obviously designed for 6 persons. The ticket up to Station 5 was not cheap, but what the heck. Only skiers were allowed to go even further up. Continue Reading →

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Teheran’s Many Museums

Golestān Palace or Kakheh Golestan in Teheran, Teheran, Iran

Golestān Palace or Kakheh Golestan in Teheran, Teheran, Iran

Of all the great museums the National Jewel Museum certainly is the Number 1 and that term does not do it justice. We wandered through the semi-dark rooms with our mouths wide open. The beauty of the stones and jewelry was captivating. We felt we could not leave and had to look again and again, crowns, thrones, globes – all studded with huge gems, giant pearls, others so small it was hard to imagine how they could be fitted on a string. Continue Reading →

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Teheran’s Messy Center

View from Teheran at night from the Milad Tower or Teheran Tower, Teheran, Iran

View from Teheran at night from the Milad Tower or Teheran Tower, Teheran, Iran

The trip from Qom to Teheran was swift, it is only one hour by train or bus. Quickly we learned our first lesson, it was a big mistake to stay in the very center, close to the many museums and tourist attractions. Traffic is abysmal, pollution nauseating, it is noisy, crossing the road a suicidal affair and the cab ride from the bus station to the hotel is a nightmare. Continue Reading →

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